![]() ![]() Trees and shrubs are deeper-rooted the amount of water they receive should only be controlled by irrigation emitters. The amount of water they receive is controlled by the size and number of irrigation emitters. Irrigation valves do not control the amount of water plants receive. The frequency of irrigation (on and off) is only controlled by the irrigation valves. Daily summer irrigation is required only for lawns, flower beds and vegetable gardens. In other words, trees and shrubs are watered separately from those requiring daily waterings. In landscapes, trees and shrubs should be watered separately from those plants requiring daily irrigations. Part of the confusion is that everything is watered the same. I’m confused because I was told that what will kill the tree is if the soil is too wet.Ī: Your watering schedule is very confusing. ![]() The landscaper has recommended 20 to 25 minutes twice per day. My concern is that all the landscaping is on the same zone. The supplier of the tree told me it was insect damage and to water once a day for 45 minutes longer. The tree was watered twice a day for 25 minutes during the summer. The leaves went from deep green to dry and crunchy, quickly. Everything was fine until July, about 11 months after planting. Q: I purchased a Chinese pistache one year ago that was about 12 feet tall - not a small tree. The pre-emergent weed killers last about 30 days if left undisturbed. This can be done with a hoe, pulling them or killing them with a chemical such as Monterey’s Spurge Power and then removing them by hand.Īs soon as the existing plant is removed, immediately apply a pre-emergent weed barrier such as any chemical applied as a pre-emergent weed killer that controls crabgrass. To address your situation, first kill the existing plants. The existing plants must be killed first and then immediately apply a pre-emergent weed killer that attacks the seed before it germinates. In the desert, it favors the frequent irrigations of lawns, flower beds or raised vegetable beds.īecause it’s a weak competitor, spotted spurge is controlled by covering these open areas with three inches of surface mulch or shading these same areas with other plants. It spreads quickly into unprotected areas and germinates from its own seed that it spews everywhere from its tiny flowers.Īll spotted spurge is considered a weak competitor when shaded by other plants or the soil is covered by a thick mulch, and it quickly invades areas after a rain or during frequent irrigations. It is a low-growing spreading weed with a milky sap when you break its spindly and thin stems. It’s very tedious work, and I’m now up there in age.Ī: The weed you are talking about is called spotted spurge because of the dark spots on its tiny leaves. Every spring I give my lawn a couple of doses of Scotts Weed and Feed. They arise in July and continue during our humid monsoon season. Q: For years I’ve had a problem with weeds in certain areas of my yard. You cannot use this wood for wood chips or anything near plants or it can reinfest susceptible plants. If the tree continues to look bad or worsens, I would cut these trees down and get the pruning off of the property. Once this particular disease gets into the trunk, the tree usually dies. The dark cankers are probably from earlier fire blight infestations. The sap is what is contagious and can cause it to spread. What gave it away to me now are the dark cankers (black spotting) on the trunks of your trees and also the presence of sap. What gave it away then was the early spring growth, which was black, hooked and had the presence of sap. When I saw this disease in the spring, it was heavily in Asian pears, some European pears and many apples and quince. It just depends on the genetics of the plant combined with the genetics of the disease. The varieties of these plants may show differences. It is damaging to some ornamentals like pyracantha and some cotoneasters in the rose family. It can be damaging to some European pears, like Bartlett, while to others, such as Keiffer, it doesn’t seem to affect. It’s particularly damaging to all Asian pears. It’s more damaging to some apples like Pink Lady than others such as your Gala. I’m hoping it’s not damaged from fire blight.Ī: It looks like an older fire blight disease is now in the trunk of your tree.įire blight is a serious disease that is highly contagious for many apples. The tree also has some black spotting under the bark. Q : I came back from vacation and my Gala apple tree branch was dead. The trunk of this gala apple tree jas an advanced stage of fireblight. ![]()
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